New Orleans got under my skin

What a city. Our New Orleans experience was all that we hoped for and more. Much of the enjoyment of our experience was due to the kind hospitality that our New Orleanian friends and family showed us. Thanks Andy, Warren, Ingrid and Miguel Sr. and Jr.!!

Where do I begin? How about the nooks and crannies… Waking though the French Quarter, we would walk by unique little houses apartments and businesses all squished together with their plant-laden balconies and every several paces or so a little alley or courtyard would appear. There was one “apartment” that was about an arm’s reach wide and 3 or 4 stories high squeezed right between two other buildings with no space at all between them. Maybe the apartments were really long? The detail on all of the buildings was so impressive. The intricate patterns of the wrought iron balcony supports casting lacy shadows as the sun got low, a woman’s face in metal covering a window-like opening in a door, little devils or guardians adorning the tips of an iron fence. You never know what you will find.

This city had so much character. Each house and neighborhood had its own unique character. Huge and not so huge houses with crazy columns to more modest abodes with inviting porches. Old oak trees arch over boulevard streets forming shady tunnels.

We saw much of this unique character and beauty on a sweet bike ride led by Andy-- a great way to see the city. And also a great way to work off the sausage, red beans and rice that you had at 3 am after a hearty night of drinking.

We rode the streetcar down St. Charles from Uptown (Andy’s) to Canal. All along the route Mardi Gras beads hung from the electrical wires and oak trees. The streetcar itself was really neat. I’m not sure how old, but they definitely seemed like an antique that was miraculously still working. The backs of the wooden bench seats could slide from one side to the other to creating a more friendly face-to-face seating arrangement if you had a small group, a fun feature that we unfortunately didn’t take advantage of since we were only two.

How ‘bout those swamps?! We took a swamp tour by boat through Honey Island Swamp Tours 40 minutes north of New Orleans in Slidell. Our tour guide was knowledgeable about the human and natural history of the area and had a great Louisianan accent. Quite a character. We saw snakes, frogs, alligators and birds. Not too many new birds for us, but the Pileated Woodpecker sighting was cool as well as the Red-bellied Woodpecker sightings. The cypress and gum trees growing out of the water and the grey/green epiphytes hanging from their branches were very swampy and beautiful. The tour guide was very nature/conservation minded which made me happy.

The there was roller derby! Andy took us to a Roller Derby bout between the Big Easy Rollergirls from N’aleans and a team from Mississippi. The Big Easy Rollergirls totally creamed ‘em!!! It was almost too easy. This was a new experience for all of us (me, Dennis, And and his roommate) and we were all impressed and excited by the gals’ skill and burliness. As someone said, “way better than Nascar!”

There is so much more to tell and so much more to explore and experience. We will definitely be back… maybe for Jazz Fest, Mardi Gras, or just another friendly off-season visit. New Orleans is all they say it is and more. I definitely recommend this great city as a travel destination. I don’t even like football and I think I am becoming a Saints fan just because I want to remain a part of and support New Orleans. Who Dat!!

After way too much seafood, we are done and about to fly back home.

Watchin jazz tonight at DBA and The Spotted Cat...

You need to get to New Orleans.

The Mardi Gras Indians danced at Armstrong park today. For a "brief" history of these dancers check out: www.mardigrasdigest.com/Sec_mgind/history.htm

Lishka and the Biker Rebel Brass Band.

We're sitting here drinking Miller High Life (the thing to drink down here), resting our sore butts after a long day of bike riding around New Orleans. It was an excellent view of the city and a great way to recover from drinks last night and po'boys at 3am. I got to meet one of my long-lost cousins who grew up here. We met at the R Bar and it was strange waiting and looking around for a relative who I had never seen before. Turns out he was calling me on his cell while standing right next to me.

The city itself seems like a very laid back place (aside from the French Quarter). Majestic homes built in the late 1700's line the streets alongside oaks that are more majestic still. Streetcars rumble up and down the boulevard, full of tourists who only sometimes wave back at you. There are still signs of Katrina. Abandoned homes scattered around the neighborhood where we are staying (the house we are in was itself flooded). A house or two still have the spray paint markings put up by inspectors who went through each home after the flooding. A large white "X", the date of inspection, and the number of bodies found. Still, signs of recovery are everywhere: Construction crews fixing houses, for rent signs, fresh cement being laid down. However, we didn't pass through the really bad areas, where apparently whole neighborhoods still sit in ruins or have been bulldozed over.

Tonight we head over to watch some roller derby. Our first ever match! Tomorrow, perhaps some live jazz or zydeco. Need to catch a brass band too. A lovely stroll through some swamp is also on our agenda. And more great food. So much to do!

Through the Quarter.

We've been checking out NOLA on some cruisers and ended up at an elementary school fundraiser. Good jambalaya and BBQ oysters.

Lishka and Lars looking for the elusive Green Kingfisher.