Well! We're officially on the road, people. We picked up a sweet rental car in Santa Rosa -- a pearly white, XM radio-equipped Hyundai Sonata (Laday! Step inside my Hyundai...)-- and cruised it about 200 miles to the magical town of... Fresno! Aaaah, Fresno, how I've missed you. Not! Well, I do feel a strange comforting familiarity. We're enjoying some cable at the Ramada Inn tonight and plan to rise early and head for the desert. Next stop Death Valley.